Castle Rock Left Upstream with Two of Goshen's Best Climbs

The only way to access Castle Rock is to ford the Maury (Do not try to take the private drive on the opposite side of the river). Climb the steep scree slope up to the base of the cliffs. Two of the best climbs in Goshen Pass are on Castle Rock Left: Devil's Cabana Boy and Disco Stu.

  1. Aerie 5.9+ Trad
    Follow the face up to the base of the massive overhang (pass two old fixed anchors). There is a large nest at the roof, so be aware of nesting patterns, and avoid this climb accordingly. At the base of the roof, step out to the left, there is a jug for your foot as you swing around the exposed corner. Then follow the obvious crack up and to the right. Rappel down to the bolts above Disco Stu.
  2. Devil's Cabana Boy 5.11b Trad
    To the right of the massive overhang, climb up past fixed bugaboo and head to the white/orange wall with a bolt (crux). Power past bolt up following the flakes up left and then eventually right to 2 bolts to rap down 80 feet over Disco Stu.
  3. Disco Stu 5.11c Trad
    Start Devil's Cabana Boy but pull out to the face on the right above the bolt and then climb straight up to anchors. A classic!
  4. Gully One 5.7 Trad or top rope
    Next to Disco Stu. Needs Cleaning.
  5. Gully Two 5.7 Trad
    Other side of the fin. (Gully One on the other side). Needs cleaning.
  6. Sideshow Bob 5.10a Trad
    Climb up left side of wall and to the right of the large roof. Gain ledge with small pine tree. Step right out over the void and pull through good pockets to the trees at top.
    1. Duff Lite 5.9 Trad
      Easier variation to Sideshow Bob, climb straight up without going out over the void.
  7. Professor Fink 5.10+ Trad
    Climb out of the orange triangle. Climb out to the left passing one bolt. The pockets on this one are amazing!
  8. Apu 5.9 Trad
    Climb out the right side of triangle. When at the horizontal at the lip, move up and right to a large tree.
  9. Snake 5.10 Trad
    Climb route as Dillhole to horizontal at lip. Climb up and slightly left to tree atop route Cornholio.
  10. Momar 5.10a Trad
    Start 40 feet right of Cornholio and look for another orange roofy bulge. Climb up to orange rock and then take steep shallow corner left of route Cappucino to top.
  11. Klang and Kodos 5.9 Trad
    Same start as Momar but take the more obvious right facing orange corner to the right through the bulge.